Shanghai Shikumen Housing

Several times, I have mentioned the Shikumen housing in Shanghai. Today, I went on a walking tour which our photographer friend, Gang Feng Wang, leads several times a month. This was my first glimpse inside a few of the homes. 

I learned that this style of housing was built between 1910 and 1926, and originally housed Chinese who had migrated from other areas of the country, as well as some expats. They began as a fairly decent-sized dwelling, but after the originally occupants moved out in the late 1940's, the government took over, and required that each one be shared by several families. Over time, the children of those families had families, and new generations also shared the same space. In the end, up to 10 or 11 families could be sharing what was originally meant for one family.  

Each family would have a private room to sleep and relax, although several generations of a family could be sharing the same space. Each house has a shared kitchen. In some, the kitchen was entirely shared space, while in others, each family had their own section of counter. Each family had their own electric and gas supply to use as well, so each house could have 10 or 11 individual meters. Some of the houses had bathrooms, while others merely had a chamber pot, to be taken down the street and emptied in the designated depository.

One of the homes we visited was a mansion which had been lived in by an important official. It was built sometime between 1910 and 1920, and had beautiful woodworking and stained glass. When it was vacated, it was given to 11 families of retired judges, to be a shared living space. Upon walking up the wood, curved, stairway to the second level, of this once beautiful home, the hallway surrounding the stairs had become the "kitchen." Looking up while ascending the stairs, provided a view of the laundry hanging out to dry. The woodworking on the ceilings, was filthy with grease from the cooking, and had destroyed the pink and green roses that had been carved long ago. 

We also visited a Chinese pharmacy, which will be torn down, along with a majority of this housing in the next few months. The pharmacy has been in this location for 100 of Shanghai's 150 year history. 

It was interesting to learn, that a prescription from a Chinese doctor is required to get these special mixes of herbs, and although the treatment is very different, it is much like an American pharmacy. A prescription is brought in, the order is filled while waiting, and the patients name is called when it is complete. The herbs are put in tea, and used for several weeks to cure whatever the ailment may be. 

There were also some things that did not need a prescription, like dried bats, which are good for the lungs, deer tendons, which are good for our tendons, and deer "private parts," which are said to be a nice Valentine's day gift for a Chinese gentleman. These items were to be put in to BaiJiu (pronounced Bi-Joe) or a white wine alcohol, or even Chinese rice wine.

Finally, downstairs in the pharmacy, we were shown the very expensive gifts which are given during business transactions. There were Tibetan worms, and Sparrow's nests. We are told that they are to be eaten, but apparently, are not really eaten by anyone (who can blame them!) and are really just symbolic, because of their value.

It was a very enlightening tour, and was beautiful, historical, happy, sad, dirty and stinky all wrapped up in one. The people who live in these homes are very welcoming and gracious. They are happy and kind. Although, they are glad to have a home, they also look forward to selling these homes to the developers, so that they can improve their standard of living. To them, to have this opportunity, is like winning the lottery.